Haute couture cap
Madame Marnier-Lapostolle was simply seeking to downsize. Thirty-five acres of gardens, an Olympic-size swimming pool and room for 30 horses had become a bit of burden. She should have known the house sale might have caused a few ripples in the global property pond. It is after all Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat.
And since M. Marnier-Lapostolle put up a price tag of 1.1 billion dollars for her too-big-to-maintain Villa les Cèdres, the small peninsula beside Villefranche is known as the most expensive real estate in the world.
It didn’t used to be that way. Cap Ferrat and, in fact, much of the French Riviera, was just normal coast line where normal people had their normal holidays. One-piece bathing suits and big hair capped in bonnets to enjoy the sun and the sea.
The tide changed partly due to the filming of Don Quioxte by a German filmmaker. The film’s crew stayed in the hotel during the production and were so influenced by the beauty of the location that they returned with their families the next year.
After the Second World War that came as close as destroying the lighthouse beside the hotel, the bohemians arrived in the summer in deliberate contrast to the wintering elite. At the start of the peninsula, where Villefranche simultaneously merges into Cap Ferrat and Beaulieu-sur-Mer, is Villa Nellcôte. It's here that exile by the tax man led to Exile on Main Street.
Avoiding 93% income tax, the Stones turned the baroque building, also a former Gestapo HQ, into an open house party venue with a recording studio in the vast but damp and dingy basement.
The Provençal air and sea views allowed the sparks to ignite and create one of the band’s most famous albums.
Nowadays bankers and industrialists reportedly own most of the villas that hide amongst the cedar trees behind faux hedges and high walls. It’s ironic that the other original crown jewel of the Cap is the Villa de Rothschild, built by Beatrice Ephrussi de Rothschild from the original and famous banking family. Rumour has it that the Villa is currently being sold. If that is the case then Madame Marnier-Lapostolle’s sale might be surpassed.
In between the villas and the super-yachts is the sentier littoral, the walking path which outlines the entire cap and links the bays and beaches. You can isolate yourself from the headlines and the temptation to peak through the holes in the high hedges and over the automatic gates and soak in the light that Matisse and others so adored.
And with that light you can forget the attention grabbing headlines and speculative price-tags and enjoy the place for what has been described as 'an earthly slice of paradise'.