RIDE OF THE MONTH: JANUARY – CORNICHE D’OR
Early in the year, it can be cold, even on the Cote d’Azur. The days are shorter, the sun is weaker and even the water seems less blue. Taking into account the drop in temperature for every metre of elevation, on some days it can make a lot of sense to hug the coastline and appreciate the views out to sea.
January is a month of resolutions. Ride more, eat less, explore further. It’s the last one that chimes and the bike is the perfect companion. Always encouraging us to discover what is behind the next pass and the next bend. Or in this case the next bay.
We count them down heading west from the café. The first is the Promenade des Anglais then number two crosses Cagnes-sur-Mer to Antibes. From there the next takes a rider to Cannes, along the Croisette and momentarily into the world of glamour and celluloid. At least in normal times. From Cannes, number four reaches out to Mandelieu-la-Napoule.
It’s the spot to turn right away from the coast to take in The Mimosas & ‘Le Grand Duc and drink in the explosion of colour if you time it right but this time there’s one more to go. Along to Théoule sur Mer, to pick up the Corniche de l'Esterel, also known as the Corniche d'Or.
It’s here that the celebrated French designer Pierre Cardin owned the futuristic Palais des Bulle. Hanging somewhere between the cliffs and sea, now suspended in time as much as in space.
The road was constructed by the Touring Club de France in 1903 on what was the old Via Aurelia, itself a Roman road built two thousand years before that, the Corniche is dotted with creeks, coves and beaches. Mostly deserted at this time of year but promising different days ahead.
There’s a peace to this part of the coast during these months, shaken if not shattered during a normal spring and summer and the contrast itself is part of what brings us back. That and the contrast between the rich red rocks of the Esterel on one side and the endless blue on the other.
The turn at Agay takes us up into the Esterel range itself. Even now there’s more water in the shape of the Lac de Grenouillet. Crossing at the ford can occasionally be tricky, it’s about balance and commitment, and once over the road rises and becomes closed to cars.
Up above sits the rock of Saint Barthélémy, standing as a sentinel on this part of the coast. In the warmer months, up here is decidedly hot and open to the contrasting breaths of the northerly mistral. But at this time it’s temperature and still, the perfect conditions to finish the climb.
East is home, with the sea sitting on your right shoulder, Heading back down to the corniche and then retracing the tyre tracks left on the way out. If you’re lucky the sun is shining on your back to take the edge off the chill, the roads are quiet and the way ahead is clear.
If you want to fly and ride the Corniche d'Or on a top of the range bike, you can rent one of Café du Cycliste fleet of Cervélo R5s HERE.
Read about other Rides of the Month and find the perfect route by season. Or discover more details about cycling on the Cote d'Azur with our Riding Guide to Nice.